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Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

  • 1.  Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-18-2021 03:33 PM
    Hello,
    I would like some advice on what type of marking pens work over Paraloid B-72 for marking objects in collections. I have been using Micron Pigma pens for years, but would like to begin using a base coat of the Paraloid lacquer, and have found that the Microns smear when I varnish over the pen, even if I let it dry for hours.
    Your assistance is appreciated!
    Thank you
    Rachel Minor
    Jesse Peter Multicultural Museum

    ------------------------------
    Rachel Minor
    Supervisor/Curator
    Jesse Peter Museum - Santa Rosa Junior College
    Santa Rosa CA
    ------------------------------
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  • 2.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-19-2021 06:39 AM
    We've been using bottled black ink and a crow quill pen on top of a lacquer base - very old school but it works.  Technically we are supposed to place a top coat on top of the number, but I've found that that always smears so I omit.  Our conservation department has experimented with different lacquers so I can't be sure which one we actually use.

    We use a micron on tyvek labels that are sewn onto textiles, baskets, etc.

    Chrisso Boulis
    Registrar Records
    Penn Museum

    ------------------------------
    Chrisso Boulis
    Registrar, Records
    Penn Museum - University of Pennsylvania
    Philadelphia PA
    ------------------------------

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  • 3.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-19-2021 11:06 AM
    Thank you so much for your response, Chrisso.  I appreciate it.

    ------------------------------
    Rachel Minor
    Supervisor/Curator
    Jesse Peter Museum - Santa Rosa Junior College
    Santa Rosa CA
    ------------------------------

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  • 4.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-19-2021 07:25 AM
    Hi Rachel

    If you do a coating of B-72 then use a pen and they overcoat with B-67 it should work okay.  Another option is to do a coat of B72, print out the number on acid-free paper and then do an overcoat of B-72.  Saves time and actually is readable.  Only drawback is someone can peel it off if they work hard at it.  However, the conservator who taught me this trick use Japanese paper which would almost eliminate the picking-off issue.  Hope that helps.

    ------------------------------
    [Karen] [Whitehair]
    [Middletown] [MD]
    ------------------------------

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  • 5.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-19-2021 11:07 AM
    Karen, I like the idea of printing on acid free paper. I am going to give that a try. Thank you so much for your help!
    Rachel

    ------------------------------
    Rachel Minor
    Supervisor/Curator
    Jesse Peter Museum - Santa Rosa Junior College
    Santa Rosa CA
    ------------------------------

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  • 6.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-19-2021 08:01 AM
    Marking artifacts can involve quite a few choices, depending up surfaces available, durability required, and so forth. Using B72 as a base coat has been a standard of sorts for many years, often with B67 as a top coat -- the latter is less likely to cause smearing of the written number. If you use B72 on top of B72, the solvent in the mixture tends to dissolve the base layer, and cause the written number to flow and smear. However, B67 is harder to find these days, and many folks use artists' transparent acrylic medium as a top coat. You can do without a top coat, although the number will not be as durable; it may be fine for your purposes, though. Another possibility is to create printed i.d. numbers on archival paper, which can be dipped in B72 and placed on an appropriate surface. There are many more methods, including paper, Tyvek or metal tags, and fabric labels for textiles.

    I would be glad to send the exhibit marking guide I composed for my last museum, and I know that there are other good resources for this information, as well.

    Best,
    Bruce

    ------------------------------
    Bruce MacLeish
    Curator Emeritus, Newport Restoration Foundation
    Cooperstown NY
    ------------------------------

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  • 7.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-19-2021 11:10 AM
    Hi Bruce,
    Thank you so much for your response. I would love a copy of your exhibit marking guide. This forum has never let me down. What a great community this is.
    With gratitude and appreciation
    Rachel

    ------------------------------
    Rachel Minor
    Supervisor/Curator
    Jesse Peter Museum - Santa Rosa Junior College
    Santa Rosa CA
    ------------------------------

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  • 8.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-19-2021 12:56 PM
    Hi Rachel, 

    Connecting to Collections Care just did a webinar on labeling, which was recorded and is available to watch for free on their website and on their youtube page. Downloadable handouts on materials and tools used for each of the methods are at the bottom of the page. The presenters also made short tutorials for each of the different methods presented. 

    https://www.connectingtocollections.org/labeling-lightning-round/

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLH0WXCtI2nog8Fk-00hUfVh_uDeF6qPnO

    Best, 

    Gina Watkinson
    Conservation Laboratory Manager, Preservation Division
    Arizona State Museum | The University of Arizona
    gwatkins@email.arizona.edu 

     



    ------------------------------
    Gina Watkinson
    Conservation Laboratory Manager, Preservation Division
    Arizona State Museum | The University of Arizona
    gwatkins@email.arizona.edu
    ------------------------------

    AAM Annual Meeting & MuseumExpo, Baltimore, May 16-19, 2024, click to learn more


  • 9.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-19-2021 05:59 PM
    I don't have anything constructive to add, I just wanted to chime in and say this thread has piqued my curiosity as someone who's in the museum industry but does not have a museum background. What exactly is marking an object and why would you do it? Any resource you can point me to so I can learn more?

    Thanks!

    ------------------------------
    Sean Mobley
    Docent Services Specialist
    Museum of Flight
    Seattle WA
    ------------------------------

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  • 10.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-19-2021 06:25 PM
    Sean, the National Parks Service has some information on object marking.
    https://www.nps.gov/museum/publications/conserveogram/01-04.pdf
    Object marking is used to label an object with its accession number. The goal is to create a label that is unobtrusive, yet easy to read, and that does not damage the object.
    I hope this helps.
    Happy weekend!
    Rachel

    ------------------------------
    Rachel Minor
    Supervisor/Curator
    Jesse Peter Museum - Santa Rosa Junior College
    Santa Rosa CA
    ------------------------------

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  • 11.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-20-2021 06:57 AM
    The purpose of assigning a permanent number to an object is simple: identification of the object.
    The more generic the object, the greater the need for a unique and permanent id.
    Physical numbering is preferable to tagging because tags go astray.
    Reassociating stray tags and unnumbered objects is one of the banes of Registrarial work.

    On a separate point re: marking.  We've tried using adhered paper labels with poor results.  It was a large collection that had been on loan.  Unfortunately, the labels started to pop off after a few years.  I'm not sure what the problem was.  Fortunately, all the objects were individually housed, and their new number was on the box/bag.

    Chrisso Boulis
    Registrar Records
    Penn Museum
    T: 215-898-4088



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  • 12.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-21-2021 02:52 PM
    Hi - in my experience it is a combination of the strength of your paraloid/acetone mix and the ink you use.

    I have always used paraloid b72 crystals then added acetone so I can control the thickness - plus it tends to get thicker over time. Using empty/sterilised clear nail polish bottles is ideal, just use a ratio of 1:3 for top coat, 1:5 for bottom coat - the top coat needs to have less acetone in it or it can remove the bottom coat...

    1 part:acetone
    3 parts: paraloid crystals

    My pen of choice is Rotring pens, with refillable cartridges. You can get black ink and white ink. They are expensive but if used carefully and cleaned once in a while they can last for many years. 

    With best wishes, Laura




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  • 13.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-22-2021 07:23 AM
    Rotrings are excellent for very fine lettering/numbering.  They are expensive, AND you MUST keep them clean.  Once the channel is clogged, you need to replace the whole pen. 
    Crow Quill pens are not expensive in comparison.  Your average craft store carries body/quill sets, but you can get separate bodies and a box of replacement quills via mail order.  Sometimes the tip gets damaged and its and easy swap.  And you must keep them clean
    A fine tip calligraphy pen is good for white ink or relatively larger numbering projects/objects.  Body and nibs generally separate so that you can get a couple different nibs and one body.  And you must keep them clean.
    Last and certainly not least - Micron pens.  Something that you do not have to keep clean.
    Oh, and there are white ink calligraphy pens out there - we experimented with a few and had inconsistent results.
    Brushes - look for a bundle of cheap fine craft brushes.  You might have to trim some of the larger ones down.  And yes, you need to clean after use, but that is not always successful because of the lacquer.

    You need to practice numbering regardless of which you use.  FYI:  Crow Quills and Calligraphy pens nib can be scratchy and the ink blobs.  White is worse than black ink.  A bottle of black has no shelf life.  White gets thick or separates very quickly once open.  I don't have a favorite brand.
    You also need to take into consideration who is doing the numbering and adapt accordingly.  For example, if we have a student doing a large batch of sherds or lithics, then it is going to be a micron pen (little to no clean-up).  If it's a SW pottery jar, then it's staff member with a crow quill with minimal clean-up (I hope).
    I don't number as much as I'd like, but I spend way too much cleaning up the quills, nibs and brushes.

    Chrisso Boulis
    Registrar Records
    Penn Museum

    ------------------------------
    Chrisso Boulis
    Registrar, Records
    Penn Museum - University of Pennsylvania
    Philadelphia PA
    ------------------------------

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  • 14.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-22-2021 09:07 AM

    Howdy Rachel,

    Please see:

    Davidson, Amy, and Marilyn Fox. "The Pitt Pen, a possible option for labeling fossil vertebrates." Society for the Preservation of Natural History Collections SPNHC Newsletter (2011): 23-28.

     

    After reading this, I switched to PITT artist pens (Faber-Castell). They are much less smudgy, and last much longer than do Microns.

     

    I would also humbly suggest using paper or cloth strips instead of sandwiching between adhesive layers. In my experience, the thicker sandwich layers are likely to eventually peel or chip, and when they do, you are left with a partial number. If a strip does come loose, it is typically noticeable before it fails completely, and if it does come completely off, you will have a _complete_ number associated somewhere near the object. The Japanese paper is really good for this, as it is more conformable and become translucent when adhesive is applied.

     

    Sincerely,

     

    Chris

     

    J. Chris Sagebiel, Collection manager

    Texas Vertebrate Paleontology Collections

    J.J. Pickle Campus, The University of Texas

    10100 Burnet Road, VPL Bldg. 6

    Austin, Texas 78758

     




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  • 15.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-23-2021 07:33 AM
    What adhesives are people using?
    The preferred adhesive, (labels are still in place), was discontinued.
    The substitute was the one where the labels just popped off after a couple of years.

    Chrisso Boulis
    Registrar Records
    Penn Museum

    ------------------------------
    Chrisso Boulis
    Registrar, Records
    Penn Museum - University of Pennsylvania
    Philadelphia PA
    ------------------------------

    AAM Annual Meeting & MuseumExpo, Baltimore, May 16-19, 2024, click to learn more


  • 16.  RE: Object Marking over Paraloid B-72 lacquer

    Posted 03-23-2021 09:55 AM
    From Minnesota Historical Society...Standards for Processing Archaeology Collections, (https://www.mnhs.org/collections/archaeology/reports/MHSReposAppx.pdf)  page 5.  I have found the printed label process described below works well!  
    Labeling
    It is essential that the catalog number remain associated with an object or a group of objects as soon as the number has been assigned.
    An object may become inaccessible without the catalog number. For this reason, directly label all stable artifacts larger than the size of a dime. (e.g., lithics, glass, ceramics, bone, antler, most metals). The number must be:
    • durable to remain legible over time,
    • removable, should the need arise to make a change in the future, and
    • never cause harm to the object.
    Applying Direct Labels
    Direct paper labels
    Paper labels may be generated from a computer and laser printer as an alternative to applying
    numbers using India ink and pens. Compared to traditional handwritten labels, printed labels:
    ƒ are more consistently legible,
    ƒ can be reduced in size to fit small items,
    ƒ can save time as the barrier layer does not need to dry to apply the paper label on top of
    it, and
    ƒ avoid the problem of finding a white background for a dark object.
    Materials:
    Acryloid B-72, 20% solution in acetone*
    Acrylic gloss medium, Golden Artist Colors, Inc. (water-based acrylic emulsion)
    Acetone, 100%*
    Rhoplex
    Printer paper (acid free) & laser printer
    Archival paper tags with soft cotton string
    2H pencil

    Where to Label:
    When applying direct labels, avoid diagnostic portions of an artifact. For example:
    ƒ Stone tools should be labeled on the unmodified portion, or cortex, of the tool if
    possible. If a tool has been bifacially worked, label the least photogenic side.
    ƒ Sherds should not be labeled on the broken edges because accurate reconstruction
    would be inhibited and would prevent observations of the ceramic body.
    ƒ Labels should not cover maker's marks or design elements, if possible.

    Erik Holland

    😷 (social distancing)

    Curator of Education
    State Historical Society of North Dakota
    North Dakota Heritage Center
    612 E. Boulevard Avenue
    Bismarck, North Dakota 58505
    701 328-2792

    701 516-6847 c
    eholland@nd.gov



    ------------------------------
    Erik Holland
    Curator of Education
    North Dakota Heritage Center
    Bismarck ND
    ------------------------------

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